"Chanel’s ‘eco-friendly’ silk suppliers from China have a questionable environmental record" 24 February 2025

In this last article of our GreenFakes series, we look at how Chanel has deliberately opted for Chinese silk suppliers whose practices were assessed as being ‘very poor’ in terms of environmental and workplace safety in an audit conducted in 2020. The GreenFakes investigation, based on confidential documents obtained by the NGO Climate Whistleblowers...

When questioned by Mediapart, Chanel did not deny the findings that their suppliers had questionable environmental and workplace safety standards, but asserted that “numerous corrective measures” have been implemented since the audit was conducted.

Several consultants from the French firm PUR Projet, which specializes in environmental studies, traveled to China. Chanel had commissioned them to “audit potential new suppliers” of organic silk...The inspection focused on two mills in the Sichuan region: Antai and Fenggu.

Antai and Fenggu are rated “red,” the lowest of the four possible grades, regarding their respect for organic production...In many farms, the auditors uncovered instances of water pollution leading to eutrophication, which refers to the proliferation of invasive algae on the surfaces of water bodies...The Fenggu factory is responsible for “water pollution due to poor wastewater treatment”...

The auditors point out that the workers are well-paid. However, “working conditions are difficult” due to dust and heat...In both companies, “masks are not always provided to employees despite the dust, they have had no training in handling chemicals, and extinguishers, covered in dust, are not always available”...

Despite this audit, Chanel has decided to use silk produced by Fenggu and Antai in its garments. Both companies have indicated in the Chinese press that they supply the French group.

When contacted by Mediapart, Chanel stated that it had no direct contractual relationship with Fenggu and Antai, but confirmed that these two companies do indeed deliver their silk yarns to the fabric manufacturer from which the luxury brand obtains its supplies.

Chanel declined to comment on the 2020 audit, or its decision to use these silk producers despite their poor environmental performance (read the full response)....Chanel claims that new “audits” have enabled it to “measure the progress made.” However, the group refused to provide us with these documents, “which are for internal use only.”...

When reached by phone, silk producers Fenggu and Antai declined to comment and refused to confirm their association with Chanel, despite having stated this to the Chinese media...